1.) The oil pan - The standard rear sump pan works just fine, the problem that we had was when we mocked up the first time we used a standard cork gasket and built the motor mounts to have the motor just barely off the steering rack. When we put the motor in for final assembly, we used a Felpro rubber gasket. The gasket thickness bit us big time. We didn't know it until we tried to get the motor back in place. The mounts didn't line up and the motor was rocking back & forth on the front cross member. OOPS! A little hammering and we were able to push the pan in enough to get the motor to line up.

When we fired the motor for the first time there was a god awful pinging sound - we pushed the pan in too far. Being lazy backyard mechanics, we just wound the motor out a few times and let the counterweights on the crank make the room they needed. We already dented the pan, and we figured if the crank could pound it out we wouldn't have to pull the motor back out. If it didn't then we would.

2.) The Driveshaft - Origionally I had the driveshaft 1" too long. It looked ok, but since this was the first time any of us did anything this crazy we found that the yoke was going to push into the transmission just a bit too much when the suspension squatted in the rear. If you are going to have your driveshaft cut, make sure you have it too long the first time and not too short. It was easy enough to have them knock off another inch from the shaft & bolt it back in.

3.) Subframe Connectors - Any tech inspection will want to see your welds. They can NOT be ground. If the welds are too sloppy they may not let you on the track. We haven't been through tech yet, and it is one of our concerns. If you are not a good welder, pay someone to put the connectors in - save yourself headaches later by paying a pro to do it right the first time.

4.) Body Work - This is my first time working with body panels and body filler. The biggest mistake that I continually make is using to short of a sanding block. When you use a small block on a flat area you quickly create low spots and waves. Use the longest block you can put in your hands and if you need to, consult people who have done it before.

5.) Hood clearance - We aren't sure that we're gonna get the air filter to clear the bottom of the hood. We did all that work on the hood, putting the scoops in and putting in the brace underneath to support it. Now all that work may have been in vain because of poor planning on my part. We are looking at building an air box and moving the filter(s) out like you'd find on the stock 5.0's.